Threadless, internal, external — and why we only use two of the three
Choosing a new piercing should be the fun part. So should choosing the jewelry — watching the options open up has been one of the real joys of doing this work for as long as I have. But there is one detail that sits underneath all the pretty tops and gemstones and gets almost no attention until something goes wrong: how the jewelry is actually held together. The threading.
At Stacked, we only pierce with internally threaded or threadless jewelry. There is no externally threaded jewelry in the studio, full stop. That is a deliberate line, not a stylistic one — and once you understand what is happening where the post meets the tissue, you will see why. Here is the whole picture, in the three types you will run into.
Externally threaded: the one we won't use
Externally threaded jewelry has the threading on the post itself — the part that passes through your piercing. The decorative end screws down onto it. It was the industry standard for years, and it is still the cheapest and most common thing out there, which is exactly why it is worth understanding.
The problem is that threading. Those tiny ridges drag across the inside of your piercing every time the jewelry goes in or comes out, causing micro-tears in the tissue of both new and healed piercings. That same spiral of threading holds onto crusties and bacteria, which then get carried straight into the piercing channel. There is nothing seamless about the transfer — it catches, which means more force to insert and remove, right at the spot you least want to be forcing anything.
It gets worse below the surface. Externally threaded jewelry is cheaper to mass-produce because it is made from lower-quality metals, often containing nickel — and nickel is one of the most common causes of metal reactions and lasting sensitivities. The external threading can also let the ball work loose more easily, which ups the odds of the whole piece falling out. Cheaper metal, rougher pass-through, looser hold. That is the trade you are making, whether anyone tells you or not.
Externally threaded: the ball screws onto the post, so the threading passes through the piercing.
Internally threaded: threading turned inward
Internally threaded jewelry flips the whole thing around. The threading lives on the inside of the post, and the end piece — the ball or decorative top — has a small threaded tail that screws down into the post. The result is a flush connection and, more importantly, a completely smooth post surface passing through your tissue. No ridges, no catching, no micro-tears.
This is also where the jewelry insertion gets genuinely comfortable. When we are setting jewelry into a fresh piercing, a taper can be used to create a seamless transfer from needle to jewelry — the tissue never has to negotiate a rough edge. That is the difference a smooth post makes, and it is why internal threading became a professional standard long before most people knew the term.
Internally threaded: the top screws into the post, leaving a smooth surface where it counts.
Threadless: no threading at all
Threadless jewelry is exactly what it sounds like — completely without threading. Instead of a screw, the two pieces are anchored by a tension-based connection. There is a small bend placed on the internal pin, and that bend creates just enough friction to hold the top securely in place.
Like internal threading, this gives you a seamless, flush connection from needle to jewelry, and a taper can be used to assist with the transfer. What people tend to love about it day to day is the simplicity: no tiny threads to line up, no screwing a gem the size of a grain of rice onto a post. You bend the pin a touch for more hold, ease off for less. Change your top, keep your post. It is the system a lot of the industry — us included — now reaches for first.
Threadless: the top is tension-set, held by a slight bend in the pin — no screw at all.
Why internal and threadless became the standard
Internally threaded and threadless jewelry are the new industry standard because they are designed with the client and the professional in mind — the person healing the piercing and the person performing it, not the manufacturing cost. Both are typically made from implant-grade titanium, which significantly reduces the chance of a metal reaction: less than 1% of the population is allergic to titanium. Both can also be made from other quality materials, including 14k gold and niobium.
The short version: external threading puts a rough, often nickel-containing surface through your tissue. Internal and threadless keep that surface smooth and the material body-safe. That is the whole reason we drew the line where we did.
| Type | How it connects | What passes through your piercing | We use it? |
| Externally threaded | Ball screws onto the post | A threaded, ridged surface that can tear tissue and trap bacteria | No — never |
| Internally threaded | Top screws into the post | A smooth post surface | Yes |
| Threadless | Tension — a slight bend in the pin holds the top | A smooth post surface | Yes |
How to tell what you're wearing
If you already have jewelry in and you are not sure which kind it is, there is a simple test — do it with clean hands, and only in a healed piercing. Hold the back or post steady and try the decorative top. If it pulls straight out with no twisting, it is threadless; you will see a smooth, slightly bent pin. If you have to unscrew it, it is threaded, and the question becomes where the threads sit: a rough, ridged post is externally threaded, while a smooth post with the threads tucked inside is internally threaded.
If you find you are wearing externally threaded jewelry — especially in a newer piercing, and especially if it is irritated — this is worth a conversation. Please do not start yanking jewelry out of a healing piercing to check. Come see us, or your own trusted piercer, and let someone assess it with you.
Frequently asked
Is externally threaded jewelry safe?
For a healing piercing, we would not use it — the ridged post can tear tissue and carry bacteria into the channel, and it is usually made of lower-quality, often nickel-containing metal. That combination is exactly what we design against. There are far more comfortable, body-safe options that do not cost meaningfully more.
Is threadless or internally threaded better?
Neither is "better" across the board — both are smooth-post, body-safe systems, and both are excellent. Threadless tends to be the easier one to live with day to day, especially if you like changing your tops. Internal threading gives a very locked-in feeling some people prefer. We will guide you based on your piercing and how you like to wear it.
What is a taper?
It is a slim, tapered tool that threads onto or seats into your jewelry so we can guide it through a fresh piercing seamlessly — needle to jewelry with nothing catching in between. Both internal and threadless systems allow for it.
What jewelry do you pierce with at Stacked?
Internally threaded or threadless only, in implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136) or 14k gold. No externally threaded jewelry, and no exceptions.
The threading is the part no one sees — which is exactly why it matters.
You should not have to become an expert in metals and their alloys to get pierced safely. That is our job. Whatever piercing you are thinking about, make sure whoever does it checks your anatomy, walks you through every jewelry option, and explains what is actually going through your skin. That is simply how we work. If you are ready, or you just want to talk it through, come see us — we will start with your anatomy and go from there.
Fourteen years in, Sasha writes from the piercing room, not the marketing desk — thorough, judgment-free consultations, a calm space to show up exactly as you are, and exclusively implant-grade titanium and 14k gold, including gemstone options.